Mono Lake – CA

Walking among the ghosts.

Night photography brings out different qualities in different people. For some, it’s the deep and dark colors of the sky and for others it’s the unusual possibilities of images not yet imagined.  But for those of us who are no longer walking this earth in bodies, it’s a chance to visit with the living and remember when they too had physical form. I am talking about ghosts.  Now, I can’t tell you they exist but I can tell you that, while out with my camera in a very amazing place last night, they were with me and I heard them rumbling around, maybe looking through my viewfinder to see what I see. Maybe.

We visited Bodie which is an abandoned but well maintained town now labeled a “Historic Park” which was a gold rush boom town in 1877 and by 1879 had about 8,500 people living there and more than 2,000 buildings. They even had a China Town section which, if I were alive then, would be where I would eat supper most nights. But, by 1881, the town was no longer boom and headed quickly to bust. The gold mines were depleted and people were leaving. In 1892 a fire destroyed much of the town and again in 1932 another fire wiped out all but 10% of the remaining buildings.

This is the subject of this evening’s outings, walking among the dead at a place ruined by flames, yet still alive in more ways than you can imagine.  While Bode is open every day at 8 am for visitors to wander, it’s rarely open at night and a rare and wonderful opportunity to have the entire town all to ourselves was the result of months of pleading, begging, arguing and promised favors. Lance Keimig who led this trip (google him) made this possible. Thanks Lance.

Meeting Rod, a roundish 70′ish fellow with a beard like Santa Claus in a Ranger’s uniform at the gate happened at 8:00 pm. He gave us a little speech about how we can’t go into any of the buildings and had to stay together as a group. While we didn’t enter the buildings (they were locked) we did manage to go our separate ways to locate our own magic that night. Unfortunately we turn into a pumpkin at midnight and had only those 4 hours. For most photographers, 4 hours at any decent location we’re just getting warmed up. And with multiple 10-15 minute exposures, time moves much more quickly.

Bewildered by the enormity and the choices,  I find a simple subject to start and determine how I will light it, I spent a 1/2 hour but finally made one image. I made my 1st photo, I am officially started.

First Image of the night

As I walk down the abandoned but well maintained streets, I notice a beautiful store front, as if wrapped and sealed from time over 100 years earlier, it too was worth considering. It has a few Edison bulbs hanging inside, I think about the exposure, make a few tests then compose best I can given the limitations of the space.

Next stop will be farther out from the center of town, I walk the streets as if I were a miner looking for a crew to sift the waters of the Colorado River, searching for something which I don’t yet see, for a chance to click my shutter once more and capture time.

The abandoned streets are unusually quiet and I stop to look and then it happened. I hear a sound, footsteps in a building that hasn’t been occupied for a century, they are heavy, moving slowly and the wood is creaking, as each step moves it closer and closer to where I am standing. I see nothing I hear everything. There’s a deep sigh. I check around me…. nothing. I look down the street…. no one.

I decide I am not leaving without a picture so I click, wait…….. then split. My own heart was pounding like the gallop of horses driven by men headed to the saloon after weeks of pan handling and hard core mining. I didn’t see exactly what I shot until later.

The night time, haunted streets of Bodie CA

I checked to see if a ghost was behind me as a walked with a quickened pace, I think I lost him. But just in case, I said to myself “If there is a ghost here with me, take me to your favorite place” and as I walked down the street, I felt the pull of inspiration, as I passed an old piece of mining equipment. This is what I saw.

Abandoned Generator still running the night sky's star trails.

Remember, it’s pitch black, only the moonlight to work with, I washed the sides of this monster with a delicate swoosch of my flashlight, I went behind it to fill the dark spaces which were invisible to the world and I watched as the stars streamed by. How did they move so far in the last 12 minutes, was it the generator still working, pushing its electricity into the sky to propel the stars as a way of entertaining itself? Or was it simply there watching like I was, loving the attention from a stranger with a camera who took fancy to a huge lump of metal. You decide.

I wasn’t kidding when I said everything looks better at night. The only problem is that you have to stay up late to see it. I am tired and it’s early, but the time here is really worthwhile.  Because it takes so long to make an exposure; up to 12 minutes per frame and up to 30 frames per image, productivity is not measured in quantity. I can see now that a night out shooting might yield one or possibly two good images. Yet, the process pushes everything to the limits. Expensive zoom lenses are not good enough anymore, now you need really expensive single focal point lenses to get the sharpness of star trails and to focus in the dark.  This is serious work for some people and I am getting exposed (no pun intended) to the night photography community on this trip. It’s a wonderful, exciting and exhausting activity that is as complex or as simple as you want it to be. I am really just a beginner and I am really enjoying the process.

Now, lets talk about what I did last night. I drove into Yosemite about 12 miles in and found Olmstead Point. It’s a pull-off from the main road and really, unless you are looking for something specific, it’s just another rest stop on the road into the park.  Yet this is a special place since many of the wonderful images shot at night in the park are made here.

I dressed warm, the sky was clear, the winds were still and left the comfort of my warm car to see what I can by moonlight. At first, the sky was still clinging to the daylight as the earth gently slid into the night. The western sky was glowing with those remnants of day and it was still a bit early to shoot, so I wandered into the woods to find a tree.

Looking for a tortured soul’s expression in wood, I found beauty once again in the death of a once vibrant wood. In it’s final reach for the sky, I saw in her arms why she loved to be here, in this spot and on this earth. Singing out to those still looking for her, she died showing her heart which glowed with the warmth of existence available only to those who look for such things. Here she was and there I was, asking her how she wanted to be seen. I walked from side to side, I opened my own heart and waited for that knowingness that comes from looking and there it was.

I carefully lit her branches which prayed to the night sky for expression through the eyes of others, and she had her wish…. and I had mine. The 1st exposure was complete, not too bad, only an hour. I thanked her for her gift and walked further. I wandered in the dark, still thinking about how I could have improved on the image but left feeling like I had something good.

I stopped at several other places only to leave without making the next connection. It had to be right or I wouldn’t be content. Then disaster struck. I tripped and fell, slightly hurt but worse…. my camera hit the ground hard. I brushed myself off and discovered that I had damaged the lens, which was a real disappointment. I had another lens with me but it was not one I thought I would use. Yet, opportunity to see differently comes to me sometimes if I don’t seek it on my own, so I placed my 50mm F1.4 on my camera, still mourning the loss of my 17 -40 F4 L and kept moving, a little bruised and banged but still excited about the night.

Walking in the opposite direction of the parking lot, I noticed a grand, old gentleman tree who had claimed his kingdom near the top of a small rise, watching over me as I approached. He was strong and confident, having seen so many like me pass him on the way to somewhere else.  I also saw the wind was picking up and that’s not good with 12 minute exposures so I had to choose carefully where I would set up shop. I found that spot, finally, tested the light and made a few decisions.  My first exposure was dark, my second was sloppy, so I started over. First focus, then plan how the flashlight will paint details into the bark and skin, then start with new tests.  And test I did until I found a combination of light and time that made something beautiful to see.

I opened the shutter, walked into the scene with my flash light ablaze, careful not to “spill” on the ground and gently painted his majestic form from several distances and angles. This is what I saw when I was done.

The stars saw me out there watching and waiting as my camera absorbed the available photons, they didn’t stop to greet me buy continued streaking through the sky. From their perspective, it was me who was streaking by, not them. They stand still as they have for several billion years, it’s our upstart planet that can’t be still, spinning and spinning while the stars continue to watch and see how it all unfolds.

The proof of my story lies in the remnants left on microscopic silicon chips in my memory card, streaking the sky with blazing light that shone forth billions of years earlier, their passion still visible as they burned for hundreds of centuries only for their flickers to reach us now. For you and I to see.

That was enough, time to go, 2:00 am and tired. Adrenaline still coursing though my body with the ups and downs (literally) of the evening, I had to stop since I knew my internal clock, trained for weeks and months at a time, will still wake me tired or not, at an ungodly hour of the morning.  Sleep, finally. More tomorrow.

The weather here is like it was yesterday, hot all day and cool at night. It’s beautiful here and as I will show you, it’s even more beautiful at night. The sky glows with a reminder of the daylight, as the sun sets slowly over the Sierra Mountains. The winds protest at first then they too decide it’s time to retire for the evening and wake up fresh the next morning. Even the bugs go home to their buggy family and tell stories of the day.  But that’s when we just get started to see the world in a different way.

As the temperature drops, the excitement builds and the uncomfortably of the body fade quickly. Presence takes over and vision begins a new. The mind is quiet and the eye is roaming with a blank canvas as the world floods in with data. It’s all compared to previous ideas, images and thoughts yet quickly and without effort sort themselves out into a stream of just being with what is there, right in front of me and now only my emotions are in control. I can’t think about this, I have to feel it. Then, my heart quickens as something inspires me to my core, everything seems to be falling into place and the tripod magically opens, the camera is ready, the careful, technical dance of checking every detail before making an exposure is swift yet precise.

Then, as my vision flows through this tiny hole in the back of my small machine a emotional peak is hit. The camera is focused, locked down and a test exposure made.  Ten seconds later, I see the results of my fit of passion. It’s good, not great or perfect but a good start.  Change positions, visualize what could be with added light from my Sure Fire flashlight, try again.  Now it’s perfect.

Set the timer, 10 minutes typically and now…. Get busy.  I move to the left and “paint” the surface of my subject. Wait, I should do it from the side to add texture. I literally run to the next place I need to be with my flashlight, carefully doing the inverse square math in my head to figure out distances, times and intensity.

Careful to cover everything, yet trying not to over do it. From spot to spot, place to place, 20 seconds of light on each surface, always hidden from the camera so not to show signs of my physical presence in the frame, then I wait….. I hear the shutter click and I wait about another 10 seconds for the camera to display it’s gift.  No, it wasn’t perfect, I set up again, carefully noting what could be fixed, I duplicate my steps with corrections. Time melts away faster then slower then faster, before I realize I spent an hour and not quite perfect. Doesn’t matter, when will I be here again, with these perfect conditions, this lighting with an able body and strong vision? Who knows. I am here now, I don’t go until I am done.

Then, I look, 3 tries later, it’s good, really good. Sigh. A nice image, my prize, my soul on the back of a camera soon for all to see stripped of pretension and status, just a picture from my soul and heart…. to yours.

The light on the distant Tufas are my flashlight, the light on the closest tufa is the moon light with a little help. The white foam that looks like snow is there and part of the mono lake ecosystem.

A composite of two 10 minute exposures stitched together as a panoramic.

I look at my watch, it’s 1:00 am, that’s 4:00 am ET, and I am tired but too excited to sleep. Just one more, I will try one more, see what I can find, my comes to me, what makes my heart sing.

Most photographers describe a similar experience and that’s why we do this. You may write, draw, skydive or sing, you feel the same way when you do. It’s the creative process and the juice we get from that expression.

This image was lit in several places and is much different than the others. It’s on a path, in a literal forest of Tufa’s which outcrop all along the tiny south end of the lake. Sometimes plants die and are more beautiful in death than in life. See if you agree.

Remnants of a Yucca meet Tufas on the path to the watherfront.

Notice the star trails, that’s the earth’s rotation creating that streak, which night photographers take great pride in getting perfect. This image was lit in several places, the inside of the dead plant was hit hard, probably for 15 seconds, along with the spiny remnants of it’s pulpy surface. The path was lit for 5 seconds total, the surrounding shrubs were “touched up” as were the tufa’s to the left of the subject.

Tomorrow, I will show you what it looks like from 10,000 ft up on the Yosemite trail.

It’s nice to feel how hot the sun feels in the mid-morning as we wandered around the lake area.  It is windy and a lot of ripples on the surface of the lake water prevent reflections of the Tufa’s on the surface.  The Tufa’s are a natural formation which make this place so unique. You can read more about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mono_Lake

The area we are staying in; Lee Vining, CA is less than 15 minutes from where we have been photographing. The good news is it’s close, the bad news is there’s very few decent places to eat. Not a big deal but a small distraction. The other “bad” news is that cell service is horrible. I can barely get a call and most txt’s won’t go through. I wanted to say “hi” but can’t so I will have to do it person when I get home.

Our mornings are unplanned until about noon, then we are in a class room until about 5, then dinner and then out to our next location. Last night we shot the beautiful moonscapes of the lake surface and the south Tufa’s which were amazing. I don’t have any of that processed yet, but here is what it looks like in the daytime. Believe me, there’s no comparison to what it looks like at night.

For someone like me who’s never seen anything like this, it’s unusual to say the least.  You can see how windy it was by noticing the water. It’s also very beautiful and lacks the feel of being trampled upon by tourists. There were a lot of visitors but everyone was careful not to damage the fragile landscape.

But there’s always different ways to see the same thing, and here’s another.  Because of the elevation and the general lack of clouds, it seemed like a great place to do some Infrared photography too. Infrared also makes it feel even more surreal and closer to what it actually looks like in my mind’s eye. Here’s a different view, same general area but with my Infrared camera:

Infrared View of the Tufas at Mono Lake

Now remember, these are just snapshots from my first morning there, not the good stuff! Maybe tomorrow I can have some images processed and will show you the night photographs.

I hope all my friends at BBI are making great progress and having a good day, I miss you all.

1st Night in Lee Vining

Arrival at the airport was uneventful except they lost (misplaced?) the food so they stopped before taking off and sent out for sandwiches. Wonderful. Other than another stellar performance by American Airlines, the flight landed safely and our luggage was prompt.  I met my car sharing buddy at the airport and we then set out for the next 3 hours winding in and out of little CA towns trying to st on Rt. 395.

Finally after many hours of flying and driving, the road-side motel appears and a miracle happens. Our room keys are in the mailbox! So that was the uneventful but important 1st step, getting here.  Now to breakfast.

This will be my second trip with Lance and a small group of dedicated night photographers. I fly out to Reno, NV and drive for 2-1/2 hours to get to the Mono Lake area. I arrive at around 10:00 pm and it will be just the beginning of throwing my sleep schedule into a tizzy.

On my last trip with Lance we were in Scotland (you can read my day-to-day musings here as well) and the time zone thing was not so bad. Scotland was more day photography with a few nights out, this is really mostly/only a night trip until Thursday.  After that, I am on my own until Saturday and I will probably venture into Yosemite or other local natural attractions and photograph during the day too. Since I am getting very familiar with High Dynamic Range, I am looking forward to using those skills in the days after this trip, shooting landscapes.

To start, we are going to spend day time hours with our computers and LightRoom and night time hours in the dessert on a lake bed and in the Bodie ghost town.  In Bodie,we have the entire place to ourselves for 5 hours, imagine getting to be alone at a national monument at night to photograph? Amazing!

I am taking the same basic gear as I took last time with the addition of a small carry pack which I will ship with my checked bags. Last time, I found my main bag too big to carry through out the day and on hikes and since I didn’t need my spare camera body, chargers, long lenses, etc, I left it back and stuck lenses in my pocket. That’s didn’t work out too badly but it was sloppy and not well organized.

I will report back how it worked out, I might make this part of my S.O.P.

Tomorrow is a travel day so expect more posts over the next week. To all my BBI friends, make great things happen while I am gone!

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