Scotland

Leaving Scotland Finding Puffins!

It’s been two weeks and it’s time to go. We had a great time, we saw lots of rocks, we enjoyed the sights, the friendships, some great music and interesting meals. we took some wonderful photographs, all of us this group of ours.  But it has to end and it does so today.  BUT, before we leave there’s time for one last venture out into the hills of Shetland to find……Puffins!  And did we ever find them.   A trip to the Sumburgh Head Light House was all we needed to do to see a gazillion puffins.

And several old-friend Puffins!

And all that at a lighthouse!

Next stop, the airport to start my journey home.

It took 19 years to get back to Scotland after my first trip, I am hoping it doesn’t take 19 years to get back there again.

Last Full Day in Shetland

After breakfast, we stepped outside our hotel and spent an hour in the Jarlshoff Ruins.  This was a step up from the others, much more complete in restoration and a guided audio program made it more interesting.  Luckily we were rain free since we arrived, other than the sleet and freezing rain we experienced briefly yesterday at the abandoned fishing village, Fethaland.

Jarlshoff Ruins in Sumburgh

Next, after a little shopping at a custom sweater knitting studio (www.shetland-knitware.co.uk) where Karen bought a beautiful sweater, we went to the beach.  We went to St. Minian’s Island in Bigton Village, which is a tombolo.  I learned from Ann that a tombolo is a strip of land connecting an island to the mainland. This tiny strip of beach was quite beautiful.

That afternoon, I did an 8 panel panoramic series, which I will combine and post on the site sometime soon.

After the beach, we went into town for dinner, music and some night time shooting. The music might have been OK if it were not for our lousy seating in a noisy bar, we really couldn’t hear a thing. So out we went and wandered the town. There is a beautiful waterfront, an “old town” as well.  We finally shut down about 12:45 and were back around 2:00 am.  It was an excellent night. This was the first time I really enjoyed night shooting without the rain.  Funny thing is that the rain makes everything look better but it’s impossible to move around easily when it’s down pouring.

Dusk in the Town of Lerwick

We had to be at breakfast at 8:30 so sleep was not the priority that night. And we didn’t get much.

Next Stop Sumburgh.

Today we are leaving but before we go, we had one last breakfast of Kedgeree (smoked fish, rice, peas and spices) for breakfast, a wonderful treat.  But before we go, we are going to visit Fethaland which is an abandoned fishing village only accessible by 4-wheel drive or by foot.  We drive part of the way then load into Paul’s (the owner of the St. Magness Hotel) pickup truck, 6 of us on the flat bed.  Lance volunteered to be the official gate closer/opener as we approached sheep crossings. The weather started out the same as usual, cold, blowing and overcast.  We bumped along for about 20 minutes and crested a small hill, this is what we saw first:

Approaching Fethaland, The Lighthouse

As we drove on, we saw the development, actually two developments, one abandoned earlier and replaced by more robust stone cottages. 

And there was more to see, the dramatic coast line, the crashing waves and the lighthouse in the distance.  We hiked all over the area, Karen and I walked up to the lighthouse and was disappointed by the industrial nature of the machine, not the romantic round brick buildings of Maine and New England, more like a computerized crate with a light source up top. But of course the view was worth it.  Karen spotted some rain clouds and thought it might start raining again as it had been on and off.  Within minutes we were pelted with ice crystals in gale force winds, all the while a few of us were enjoying a deep in the deep.

Lance and Meg test the waters of Northern Shetland

As the rain subsided, we made our way back to Paul’s 4×4 and a bumpy ride and a 1/2 hour later we were back at the St Magness Hotel for a game of darts with Lance, a stuffed potato lunch and our ride to The Sumburgh Hotel.  We settled in for the night and got some needed sleep.

On to Unst!

But before you can get to Unst, you have to go to Yell!  Tiny islands off the coast of Shetland have these 10 minute ferry rides between them, like we have bus stops, they have ferry stops.  Amazingly, the ships are all new and really easy to access.  Sometimes the views from these crossings are spectacular other times quite boring, It’s been cold, very cold here and the winds are brutal.

Our 1st stop was The Muness Castle, where we spent most of the time in the ancient kitchen, but the outside still looked like a castle. This image is an experiment using Lance’s shift lens which worked quite well.

Muness Castle

Then on to photograph some boats which was a quick side stop, the big destination today was to find Puffins.

Then we stopped at the most famous bus stop in Shetland.

Geotagging Explodes at Shetland's Most Famous Bus Stop

Our drive continues to the most northern place in Shetland to take a 2 mile walk to the cliff’s edge where the puffins live.  The walk was beautiful and the landscape when arriving was amazing but alas, no puffins to be found.

Finally, after a brisk walk back to the van, we are off for dinner at the Saxa Vord Resort. http://www.saxavord.com/

Most of us had the scallops which were fantastic. The chef wrote out the recipe for us and was flattered we asked, even if he had to rub it in by telling us it was a U.S. dish. Two hours and two ferries later, we were back at The St Magnus Bay Hotel in Hillswick. We are leaving tomorrow and while a little funky over all, a great place to stay; comfortable rooms, good food and friendly people.

First Day in Shetland

Arrived off the Hjaltland Ferry and found our rental van which is brand new! It’s more spacious than the last one, so that will be more comfortable traveling. We drive about 60 miles North and end up at The St. Magnus Bay Hotel, in Hillswick. It’s an interesting place, filled with Nordic memorabilia and a jovial owner named Paul, who is very knowledgeable about the area. We go for a walk and find ourselves about a mile from some of the most dramatic coastline I’ve ever seen.

After photographing the coast, we arrive back for a bowl of Cullen Skink Soup, which is more like stew, delicious!

After lunch, we chill for a few hours and then meet for dinner which is all local as well.  We wandered over to the local church and enjoyed the simple designs and friendly care taker. There’s a circular cemetery just down the road and we were told there’s only two of that type in Scotland, it might be the base of a long-gone castle but the locals won’t allow them to dig it up and explore.

After dinner we went for another walk to the coast and were treated to an amazing sky which changed by the minute.  It was a good day.

The Coast of Hillswick

Last Day in Orkney Sunday May 30th.

Decent weather greeted us today, overcast and cold, windy but no rain. Off to a slow start because we had to pack up and get everything in the van, so we left at about 11.  Our first stop was The Broch of Gurness Broch in a week filled with these historic sites and they were starting to look alike. All interesting but difficult to differentiate photographically. That was a short stay and then back to The Ring of Brodgar standing stones, which were once again spectacular this time in day light.

The Ring of Brodgar

The Broch of Gurness

Harry Potter Throws a Pot

We then went to visit Harry Potter! He was quite the character, throwing pots for 30 years. He also sells smoked fish, by the way.

Finally, hungry for lunch we made our way back up to Appie’s where the food is always good for a late snack.  We returned to Woodwick House and shot the property as the sun was low to the horizon, making memories that would have to last until the next visit.

The Beautiful Grounds at Woodwick House

One last stop to Helgi’s for dinner and then to the ferry. The ferry was an unexpected treat, spacious clean sleeping cabins with a great shower! The next morning we met for a cholesterol packed breakfast and off we went to explore Shetland in a new, bigger van.

Day 6 – Orkney Scotland May 29th 2010

We started the day with a laundry drop in Kirkwall and then wandered around until the Fiddler’s Festival started.  There are a few interesting places to photograph in town, the grave yard is unique with blue bells growing among the rusted iron gratings and some old growth trees that could be menacing in the night darkness.  This would be a perfect place for some night photos.

The concert started and for some reason, the front row was empty in a crowded church. I walked in and asked if those seat were reserved, no one seemed to think so, it was another nice concert surprise.

A gentleman named Mr. Robin MacLennan of Dufftown sat down next to me in full Scottish regalia (Kilts, purse, high socks, high lace shoes) and looked at me, I was 1.2 his size.  First thing he told me was not to get any ideas because of his Kilts. I told him I would try and restrain myself, but he went on to explain graphically, by displaying a 4 inch blade produced from his sock, that it would be a big mistake. I laughed, we laughed, he was the perfect Sottish example of a gentleman.  After an hour of listening to the local children scratch out some traditional music on their fiddles, we left the church.

After some confusion about where/what to eat, we went off headed for Yesnaby Cliffs and on the way in Stenness, we spotted a family of swans who had just hatched most of her chicks.  Back in the van, continuing on to our destination.

Onward to Yesnaby Cliffs for a rain free overcast afternoon in the brisk sea breeze, exploring the coast line. There were interesting things as always and a beautiful place to be.

After our last Dinner at Woodwick House, we went out to Stromness in the pouring rain to take photos in town. At first I was disgusted with the thought, I was cold, tired and not motivated but as soon as I started to work I became enchanted with the wet cobblestones, the blue glow of the sky and the meditative patter of the rain.  Luckily, Anne was nice enough to lend me her small umbrella and that saved the evening for me.

Orkney, Scotland – Day 5

Like most days here in Scotland, the weather flips from rain to sun quickly.  It’s good to have 2 types of clothes with you while you travel. I had my rain pants on and my long johns in my camera bag just in case.

Today’s itinerary  was different; we immediately left for a short ferry ride to Rousay.   It’s an island off the coast with a rocky coast line. Like much of what we see, there are ruins of burial grounds and churches.  This site is particularly beautiful because much of it still stands. It’s location by the sea makes it even more beautiful.

This was a day of hiking around the coast, up and down the hilly terrain.  Luckily we had no rain today.  The long walk back to the road ended with a pickle and cheese sandwich, a bowl of sweet potato and chili soup.  Then to a small ruin which looks like an ancient submarine.

I am sure this is interesting to someone. After all, wouldn’t you climb a hill to open a steel trap door and see this? <smile>

Next was the ferry back home with breathtaking views of the sky and ocean.  While the trip was short, the sky was amazing and the weather was delivering bands of sun across the coast line.

And back to Woodwick House for a quick dinner.  Tonight was a special night because we were about to take front row seating at the Orkney Folk Festival.  While I never heard of the musicians, the music was amazing and wonderful.  We listened as a 16 year old harp player and her 13 year old brother belted out some traditional American blues and classic Scottish music as well.  It was quite an adventure.

Finally, if that were not enough, as we arrived back at midnight, a few of us decided to do some night photography and lit an old pigeon roost converted to a ceremonial pavilion, with candles and flashlights. I will show you that when I get home and have some time to clean it up, it was amazing.  Finally at 1:15, we were too exhausted to continue so we were done.

Orkney Day 4 – A New Day in an Old Place

After being out until 2, spirit didn’t move me until 15 minutes before breakfast.  It was already raining so I started the day with long johns, paints and rain pants.  Ironically the whole day was rain free after that first downpour, go figure.

We started at the Skatabrae Historical Exhibit and looked at more unearthed stones that no one knew for sure what they were used for but it very well could have been a village or maybe a casino? Not sure, neither were the proprietors.  It was a beautiful spot by the ocean and some of the formations may have made some nice photos, we’ll see later.

The we stopped at Applie’s for lunch and it was wonderful! I bought one of her cook books (something I never do) because lunch was unique and delicious, I thought maybe we could duplicate some of her flavors at home.

The next stop was at Brough of Borsay which is a seacoast site with beautiful rock formations at low tide. The air was cold and windy but the skies were rain free and that itself was a treat. I walked one way the group walked the other way, we both came back with different photos.

Seacoast and Sky at Brough of Borsay

Standing Stone by the Ocean

Our last stop for the day was at Earl’s Palace at Borsay.  This is a 15th century ruin.  The most interesting part was the small town church by the seacoast, the grave stones and the English phone booth.

Finally after dinner, we ventured out for more night photography, staying on the grounds and finishing up early (midnight) leaving ample time for a good night’s sleep.

Disclaimer: I am showing you some on this blog are snapshots and these are not a true representation of my photography of which I have yet begun to work on.

Orkney Scotland Day 3

It’s Wednesday May 26th and it’s raining again but that doesn’t stop us since the rain has so far been a temporary thing. This morning our 1st stop is to a small church nearby called The Italian Refugee Church. It really is a bunker and it’s simply decorated inside with some beautiful ceiling art.  What so apparent about this locale in general is that their local history seems centered around Orkney’s role in World War 2. There’s evidence in the form of ship wrecks and old bunkers which tell the story of the Scottish and in particular Orkney’s roll in keeping the German war machine from reaching The U.K. This tiny church is a tribute to the role both the Italians and the locals played during that time.

Next would be lunch at Jim Fred’s Cafe nearby for a bowl of their Clam Chowder.  After lunch we spend a little time in the local town exploring and visiting the tiny harbor of Margret Hope. The washed up old lobster traps are covered with stings of mussels and barnacles, some of the hand made traps are quite beautiful in their construction.

Next and last stop of the day is Hoxa Head for a visit to a beautiful coast and some old WWII bunkers.  On the way is an abandoned stone farmhouse that begged for some direct sunshine to make it pop.  We never got that but I did make several exposures and enjoyed visualizing how I can “improve” this image in photoshop.

Finally, back for another wonderful dinner of Plaice (fish) and mushrooms, fresh baby carrots and string beans.

After dinner, we decided to venture out to Stromness to do some night photography. It was pouring rain the whole time, I didn’t do nearly as much as I hoped, fighting the rain and exhaustion was too much for me and it was already midnight so I packed it in and sat in the van.

The one take-away was that night photography was going to be something I would continue to do from now on.

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